One style of ring that I like a lot is the half hoop ring. By that, I mean a ring with ‘decoration only on approximately one-quarter to one-third of the circumference, the decoration being usually a setting of gemstones’ (Newman). The stones in a half hoop are slightly graduated or all the same size. The ornamentation can just be ornate engraving. Generally, a half hoop (or a hoop) ring is one without a bezel or central ornament.
Half hoop rings are usually quite simple in style. Most of those for sale now are from the 18th and 19th centuries. They can be set with the same gem or with a mixture of gems set in collet or cut-down collets, that is, the gold or silver setting is pressed tightly around the gem, forming a little cup. With the cut-down collet, the top of the cup is cut away slightly. The back is closed. Many from the early 19th century are acrostic rings , that is, the initial letter of each stone spelt out a word such as ‘dearest’ or ‘regard’.
Open backed collet settings became more common by the 19th century although they did not completely replace the closed back style until later in the century. As well, the collet setting was gradually being replaced by the claw setting from the mid 19th century.
One of the most popular gemstones for half hoop rings in the 19th century was the pearl. They were usually graduated but some were all the same size. They were the perfect gift for a young lady or future bride.
References
Harold Newman, ‘An Illustrated Dictionary of Jewelry’, 1981.
Verlaine Davies, ‘Rings 1800-1910’, 2009
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