Jewellery re-inventions: Part I

One of the great things about jewellery is that it is often re-invented so it can be worn by a new generation. Say, for instance, that hairstyles change and ears are not exposed, then earrings can be converted into pendants. Or if shoe styles change and high-heeled buckeled shoes are no longer in fashion, then they can be converted into earrings.

One particular re-invention applies to buttons. In the 18^th century, a wealthy man’s normal clothing would be a waistcoat, breeches, a coat, a cravat and a shirt, all with buttons. Some women’s clothing also had decorative buttons.

Most of these buttons were quite beautiful. They can be handpainted, cloth covered, made of horn, gold, silver and other metals, enamelled, or made of gemstones or paste and can be quite valuable. It would be such a shame to discard them. However, they can be made into lovely pieces of jewellery. At the top of the post is a photo of a pair of 19^th century paste earrings converted from buttons. Above are a pair of earrings converted from antique buttons which are made of 18ct gold with a central emerald.

As I mentioned at the beginning of the post, changes in hair styles could lead to a move away from wearing earrings if hair was worn coiled around the ears instead of being piled on top of the head. Long dangling earrings could get lost in tumbled curls falling down the shoulders. Girandole and pendeloque earrings as well as torpedo earrings were often converted into pendants. The pendant above is likely to have been one of a pair of Georgian earrings.

Watch cocks are another example of re-invention. Watch-cocks were part of the mechanism of pocket watches with verge escarpments made in the 16^th, 17^th and 18^th centuries. They acted as a cover to protect the watch movement and to cover the balance-wheel. Each watch-cock is unique, hand crafted by specialists. This protective cover was at first quite plain but gradually they were pieced, engraved and chased, turning into works of art. The French call them ‘coqs de montré’. Some have floral designs, grotesque faces, dolphins, birds, stars, crescents or disks. Many look like lace.  Verge watches were replaced with new watch mechanisms in the 19^th century and the Victorians began to turn the ornate watch-cocks into jewellery. Necklaces, brooches, fob chains, even rings were made out of the cocks. The majority are gilded. The photo above is of a watch cock which, along with others, has been turned into a necklace.

More re-inventions next post.