The Edwardian era in the United Kingdom was a very prosperous time, and the wealthy spent money on diamond jewellery and beautiful clothes. Dresses were light and jewellery styles for the daytime were elegant and simple. It was a time of contrasts in terms of jewellery as the very rich could afford diamonds, platinum, pearls and even more diamonds. Much of the jewellery was handmade. Necklaces were garlands or festoon shaped with delicate flowing lines, influenced by the Belle Epoque and Art Nouveau styles. Delicate lace and filigree work, made possible due to the use of the lighter platinum, was admired and used in tiaras, necklaces like colliers de Chien or dog collars, favoured by Queen Alexandra, and bracelets. Negligé necklaces were popular as were sautoirs.

Edwardian opal, emerald and pearl necklace

The wealthy had time for activities like sport and shooting, and house parties were in vogue. Men had striking lapel and cravat pins, rings, cuff links, often with sporting themes or featuring Essex crystals of dog or cat heads. Both women and men wore little novelty brooches and pins, set with diamonds, of course, like the little kitten bar brooch below.

Edwardian brooch with diamond set kittens

The less wealthy, on the other hand, could still afford gold jewellery, set with seed pearls and coloured gems, but it was usually machine made. The three double-sided photo locket pendants at the top of the post are good examples of everyday middle class jewellery. Pendants with Art Nouveau influences, as below, were very popular and affordable.

Edwardian gold pendant with seed pearls, spinel and tourmaline

Pearls of all sizes were popular. These were all natural pearls and the price of large pearls during this time was high. Seed pearls were less expensive and were used in a lot of jewellery from chokers to rings. The lovely seed pearl necklace below, with the removeable brooch, is so typical of the Edwardian period.

Edwardian seed pearl necklace

The first world war saw an end to the use of platinum for jewellery as it was considered a strategic material for the war effort. Jewellery styles were to change significantly after the war, with one important development being the introduction of cultured pearls.